Sunday, September 16, 2012

Sauce Bordelaise

If you've read some of my more recent posts from this summer, you might know that I am sort of obsessed with Le Guide Culinaire by Auguste Escoffier. As you might expect, this recipe was adapted from his book. Adaptation is necessary because when it comes to compound sauces, fully replicating his recipes is near impossible. All of his recipes are designed for professional applications and usually require a great deal of preparation. For instance, he creates a base for the sauce Bordelaise with sauce Espagnole. Sauce Espagnole is made from a brown roux, brown stock, tomato purée, aromatics, and seasonings. The brown roux and stock must be made beforehand, and are quite expensive to make on your own because his roux requires clarified butter only, and because the stock recipe requires expensive beef shin bones. Needless to say, his method for sauce Bordelaise needs streamlining for the home kitchen. I attempt to do so in this recipe.

Friday, September 7, 2012

Eric Ripert's Salmon Rillettes in Vol au Vent

Well here is another quick post before I dash off up to the Adirondacks this weekend. Last night I used left over puff pastry and made some vol au vent casings. Vol au vent casings can be filled with a lot of things, and I decided that Eric Ripert's Salmon Rillettes could be one of them. The casings were awesome with the half smoked and half poached salmon. The main thing I would change about Ripert's recipe is the use of straight mayonnaise to coat the fish. It reminds me of tuna salad or something. Maybe crème fraîche and mayonnaise in a 50-50 split would work better?
Read more to see how to make vol au vent.
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